I connected the SLC controller and sensor straight out from the box, and it was running fine two days. Sensor in original place, right before cat, on angle, and in side of the exhaust pipe. Power connected as original, powering up the controller when engine starts.
Car (not that it matters) is -92 240 Volvo with original ECU, controller giving feedback and mimiking original narrowband to ECU.
On third day, the broadband controller display “froze.” As soon as it gets power, it immediately shows values lambda 0.68 and temperature 840. If you disconnect the sensor from the controller and restart it again without sensor, it shows lambda 1.03 and temperature 740. Those values don’t change at all, and when the lambda sensor is connected, running the engine or revving it has no effect. Anyone experienced this? Any ideas what could be the cause, or what I could check?
Edit: I checked and I ordered the controller and sensor in June 2023, so those have been sitting in the shelf quite while, waiting for installation. Just in case if there are some bug-fixes etc. that have happened since.
Little update. I have been using the car for a few days, and seems that the controller/sensor is mainly ok/working from the startup, and it might work 5-10 minutes ok, then suddenly dropping down to 0,68 lambda and 840celsius readings. And it is not only the display, when controller does that, it effects badly on motor running. “Resetting” might help, not always but most of the times, so if I unplug the sensor from the controller on the fly (not recommended, but I don’t have much to lose), keep it unplugged for a 30s or so, and plug it back in while the controller is ON, it might get the shakedown it needed, and get readings back to normal. I’m starting to suspect a cold solder joint; a software bug wouldn’t behave like that, and an interference issue doesn’t seem likely either. Bad soldering might act up while it warms up, and unplugging the heating circuit might give the controller needed cooling, and bring it back to operation. I will go through the solderings, and update.
Did you puchase a sensor from 14point7? If not then I suspect your sensor is a clone sensor, SLC Free does not work with clone sensors.
If the clone sensor is not the case then the most likely culprit is the 6 wire sensor cable is miswired, please check over you cable and make sure it is correct.
Sensor was purchased with the controller, so that is ok. I checked and re-checked the wiring, and it is also good. I haven’t got around this yet, but I will go through the solderings, specially my own doings (most likely place to have issues ), I suspect that the issue lays there. Controller (and the sensor) are in my daily driver, and it is working longer when weather is colder, which for me is pointing towards bad/cold solder. And once the controller freezes, if I unplug it for a period of time (to cool down I think), it works again ok for a while. But I try to look into it in the near future, and will update what I found or not found.
I got to look into this during the holidays. I didn’t find any visible issues with the controller, but I went through the solderings, and re-heated/soldered my own doings again. I have had only few tests with it since, but everything seems to be working like it should. So for now, it looks like it was (not surprisingly) user related error.
But just in case, I ordered a new one for my other vehicle, so I can swap and pinpoint the issue to controller/wiring/sensor if it comes back. Hihgly dought it, but still option if needed.
), I suspect that the issue lays there. Controller (and the sensor) are in my daily driver, and it is working longer when weather is colder, which for me is pointing towards bad/cold solder. And once the controller freezes, if I unplug it for a period of time (to cool down I think), it works again ok for a while. But I try to look into it in the near future, and will update what I found or not found.